February 2, 2004

Bethlehem Checkpoint Difficulties

[Bethlehem, West Bank] Returning from Jerusalem today, I found Bethlehem overrun with Israeli soldiers. There was another "pinpoint invasion" (as opposed to incursion) into Aida Camp. I had a bit of trouble getting back into town. Riding back in a service van, I couldn't tell if the main checkpoint was open or closed. There appeared to be a pre-checkpoint checkpoint about 100 yards or so in front of the main one. A lot of military vehicles and soldiers milling around. So our driver bypassed it and headed for a more non-official border crossing. We headed down the settler tunnel road to Hebron until we reached El Hader. But El Hader was also full of Israeli soldiers. They appeared to be holding many men and women, so our van slowed only to turn around. Our third option was the big dirt mound in Beit Jala. This place has always been an option in case all other crossings were closed. It requires climbing up and down a big pile of dirt. Pity the poor fool who has to carry a load of groceries, a piece of luggage or a kid. I've seen old folks take a pretty nasty tumble down this hill. Recently soldiers rolled a few strands of razor-wire around it to make passage more difficult. Occasionally I've seen a few soldiers by it, but not very often. It's usually available for crossing. Today was a little different.

Somehow soldiers had driven a jeep to the top of the dirt pile. It was perched awkwardly on the top, with at least one wheel freely dangling in the air. Several soldiers were visible at the bottom of the hill. When our service van arrived, no one would get leave. I told them I wanted out. I figured it would be a lot easier for me to get through the checkpoint. At the same time as our van opened, a few photographers -- with proper credentials -- arrived on the scene. I was surprised, but the soldiers allowed them to stay and take a few photos. So I'm not quite certain who they were working for, but checkpoint passage is definitely easier with the presence of approved media, so folks rolled out and up the hill. About five rifle-holding soldiers stood on the other side, and my Palestinian co-riders slowly approached them. Not all of them were able to pass, but about half were. I overheard one of the soldiers tell a Palestinian lady that Israeli citizens were not allowed in the West Bank.

The soldier took my passport and asked if I lived in America or in Bethlehem. I told him I lived in Bethlehem, and I offered that I was a teacher. He politely asked to take a look in my bag, so I showed my camera, a notepad, and a Rolling Stone magazine (RS 941 -- Howard Dean, the RS Interview). Then I opened my jacket, and he patted me down and allowed me to pass.

After I was through the soldiers, I took a few photos of other folks trying to get back into Bethlehem. Then I grabbed a taxi, and my driver told me about the invasion into Aida Camp. One Palestinian man was killed, and the soldiers remain.

(The Israeli Army continues to invade Bethlehem. You can find details on my newsgroup.)