May 25, 2002

At around 9:00pm local time, the Israelis came back into Bethlehem. I heard an explosion, neighbors called to tell me of Israeli jeeps up the road in our neighborhood, then I heard helicopters, and finally tanks. There was some shooting, machine gun bursts, and several tank rounds. I don't know exactly what is going on right now, but it's midnight and multiple helicopters are still flying overhead. I was told that this should be one of the Israeli "pinpoint" attacks, and it should be over by morning.

Travel Disparity

[Bethlehem, Palestine] I wanted to take a quick trip to Hebron today, but things didn't turn out quite that way. Hebron -- one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the world -- proved to be a bit elusive. I wanted to visit the Tomb of the Patriarchs -- the traditional burial site of Abraham, Isaac, Rebecca, Leah and Jacob.

I popped into the van which dropped me at the first temporary checkpoint. And my journey ended here. I'll admit it was a pretty feeble effort at reaching Hebron, but I'll drop in again sometime.

I got out of the van and followed the crowd. There was a group of soldiers in the middle of the road ahead blocking the way, so the crowd took to a nearby field. That didn't fool many soldiers though, so they came for us. I think a couple from our group made it to another van which quickly sped away. I was lagging behind with the older women.

Taking a rest after walking through a field.

The soldiers started checking IDs, starting with mine. Here's my recollection of the story:

• Soldier: What are you doing in this field? (This seemed like a good question to me too.)
• Bob: On my way to Hebron.
• Soldier: Hebron? What do you want to do there?
• Bob: Just to visit the Tomb of the Patriarchs.
• Soldier: You have a big problem. You cannot go to Hebron.
• Bob: Really? Is there trouble ahead?
• Soldier: Yes, it is very dangerous.
• Bob: Well, I believe I will try anyway.
• Soldier: No, you will not. The only way you will go to Hebron is if you turn back to Jerusalem and take other (Israeli) transportation.

None shall pass. Evidently there was a problem with this gentleman's papers. Indeed, he was making an effort to travel to the next town.

This conversation has been fairly typical of others. And I am usually given a lot of latitude as an international, so I bypass the problem and go ahead. But this time rather than going to Jerusalem, I decided to wait around. So I just hung out for a while as the soldiers checked everyone else arriving. Some were allowed to continue and some were turned back. A student was Bethlehem University was really worried, but she was eventually allowed to return home. One guy was told to wait in the sun as soldiers disappeared with his ID. He was told they would be back in three hours. (In fairness, these soldiers were well-mannered. I did not see them kick anyone. They did not yell and scream. They did not threaten. No one had to kneel at their feet. No one was put on the ground. No one was kneed in the back. No one was stepped on. No one was forced super spread-eagle like I had seen before.)

After deliberation, the girls were allowed to return home.

And then I decided to forget it. I had started a bit late, and I was barely outside Bethlehem. If there were a series of checkpoints ahead and each one was a hassle and a wait, then I wouldn't have time to get there and return. I spoke with a gentleman who told me his trip there took four hours. How far is it to Hebron? 20 miles? And it took four hours? I don't think I would have much time to see anything if it took me four hours to get there and four hours to get back. I should also say that it is totally my own fault that I did not visit Hebron today. If I had gone to Jerusalem and taken Israeli transportation, I am sure that it would only have taken me twenty minutes.

Something about that doesn't seem quite fair to me. Let's see, we are in the West Bank -- the Palestinian territories. We are trying to get from one West Bank town to another. We aren't passing through Israel, we just want to head straight down the West Bank. And yet it still takes a Palestinian four hours (if they are allowed at all!) and an Israeli twenty minutes? (Due to checkpoints, roadblocks, and separate roads.)

Listen, I'm not anti-anybody. I'm pro-human. I want both the Israelis and Palestinians to succeed and achieve. I'm also pro-peace. I want an end to this conflict as much as anyone. And I think that a lot more fairness would contribute significantly to the peace effort.