May 31, 2002

The Tower of David

[East Jerusalem, Palestine] I can't believe I have been here for ten months without visiting the Tower of David in Jerusalem. It sits right inside Jaffa Gate, and I have often passed by, but I didn't know how impressive the archaeological site was. Today I was first in line to see the panorama of Jerusalem, the introductory film to Jerusalem history, and the walk through the restored citadel. Excellent.

I highly recommend the museum. I took my time and read almost all the exhibits to learn as much as I could about the history of Jerusalem. Here are some quick reference facts to bring up in your next religious studies class:

• Everything here is old! Something built at the time of the American revolution could be considered a new piece of property. (I can hear my real estate broker brother, "Got a nice little contemporary number from the Mamluk period -- modern styling and priced to sell!")
• Jerusalem has been under the rule of just about everyone who passed through the Middle East. Every couple of hundred years, someone else (Herod, Salaadin, Suleiman, etc.) took charge. And for about 50 years, no one was here -- empty city in ruins! According to the posted signs, the Muslims sounded like the most tolerant historical group who ran the city. They allowed a large degree of religious freedom to both Christians and Jews.
• Depending on which religious group was in charge at the time, the Dome of the Rock (among others) switched between being a church or a mosque. It was a Christian holy site with a cross on the top for a while. Christian Kings were crowned during the crusades period in the Dome of the Rock.
• The Western Wall is thought to be the only remaining part of the huge second temple. Solomon's first temple was destroyed. Technically, it is owned by the Muslims, although they allow Jews to pray in front of it.

An odd assortment of bright blue mannequin figures crawled or climbed through the site. These were from an artistic exhibit that I considered totally out of place in this space. I love modern art, but this is an ancient archaeological ground, not a new art museum. Had I visited the site fifty times and tired of the structures, I might have been interested in seeing these comic creatures scaling the walls, but it was my first visit and I wanted to see old things. I can understand a mosaic display, maybe some shards of pottery, perhaps a fragment of scroll or a pagan idol piece, but not a blue-man show. I think it detracted from the significance and the seriousness of the area. If you want to lighten the mood of a place, I suggest moving the display to the Knesset (Israeli Parliament).

A view of a tower from the citadel in Jerusalem

Old Jerusalem foreground, Modern Jerusalem background

Minaret at the Tower of David

Tower Walls

Wow! A big blue ball! Probably over somebody's sacred tomb! Come on, move the show to a more appropriate venue.
(Or my tribute to World Cup Soccer.)