September 22, 2002

Whirling Dervishes of Syria

Hanging out in Damascus, JZ and I met a German traveling couple at a cafe near the Umayyad Mosque. JZ struck up a conversation with them and asked for some suggestions of places to eat. They had been in the city a month, and they readily offered a nearby restaurant. It is expensive, but the entertainment was supposed to be quite special. And it was.

I believe the place was called the Umayyad Palace Restaurant. It was a large downstairs place, set up like a home. Like a big Syrian living room. Lots of coffee tables, low chairs, cushions, paintings, and a big buffet. The Arabic food was pretty good, but the real fun was the show during the meal -- the Whirling Dervishes.

The Whirling Dervishes are a small group of Sufi Muslims, I think. (Note to self: check this out before posting it. Remember with so much incorrect information coming out of the Middle East, it's important for what I post to be totally accurate.) One man played a rhythm on a tambourine, and the other man, spun around in circles. The spinner had sort of a dignified look. He wore a large white outfit -- a long skirt covered regular pants. He wore a colored fez on his head. Polished black dress shoes. He didn't move around the room, he just stayed in the same place, spinning around and around. Sometimes he lifted his hands and tilted his head. He went on for about five minutes, but JZ said he watched some go on for half an hour! Evidently, the dance is part of a Sufi spiritual ceremony that aims a closer relationship with God through ecstatic experiences. The dance is a way of reaching enlightenment.

I don't think the dancer reached enlightenment during our restaurant performance. When he finished, he just went over, adjusted some of this clothing, and sat down.

Whirling Dervishes whirl

Spinning and spinning...

Oude player.