September 28, 2002

Tanks at the Checkpoint -- Intifada Anniversary

[Bethlehem, West Bank] I heard from several reliable sources that there are a few tanks around Bethlehem now. They're sitting at the main checkpoint, ready to enter the town in a moment. This is never a good sign. I don't think I've ever seen them there that they didn't eventually make an extended visit. Perhaps they're hanging out because today is the second anniversary of the intifada. Who knows what might happen. I crossed the checkpoint to take a look.

There were two tanks sitting along the side of the road, but they didn't look terribly menacing. No group of soldiers was active around them. They looked slightly abandoned. (But don't let looks fool you -- these things could be in Bethlehem's Manger Square in five minutes.) I took a few photos and then examined the surrounding area. There was no camp set up down the hill near the checkpoint. I walked farther toward Jerusalem, but I didn't see any other military vehicles except a few jeeps passing by. There were no tanks or APCs at Mar Elias either. Doesn't appear like there's any plans for an imminent extended invasion into Bethlehem. I guess the Israeli army just wanted to position a few tanks in a high-profile area to remind Palestinians not to try anything on the intifada anniversary.

There's not much traffic going through the main checkpoint now. Israeli soldiers have almost shut it down. Most traffic comes through Beit Jala. This used to be a seldom used entry point, but now it's becoming the main route into town. Sandra pointed out that it's because the Israelis are confiscating the main checkpoint area up to Rachel's tomb, so they're making this section off-limits. Darn clever of them.

On my way back from the checkpoint, I met an unusual number of young men heading down from manger square. One of them was glaring at me, so I greeted him, "marhaba." He said nothing, but kept glaring. Highly unusual for this place. Often I might get a hard stare from a guy, but as soon as I say hello, he usually breaks out in a huge grin. Just a few steps later another man was giving me a look, so I said good morning again. This guy broke out in a stream of screamed Arabic that lifted me about a foot off the sidewalk. I'm not sure what he said, but he wasn't real happy about things. I didn't stop to discuss politics. Walking maybe fifty feet up the hill another older guy was giving me a mean look, but I had already learned that lesson. I ducked into a shop for a carrot juice and to let the crowd pass. I don't know if the owner saw what happened, but he came over and put his arm around my shoulder and told me that I would always be his friend. (As long as I keep buying.) I'm not sure what was going on that stirred these guys up so much, but I thought it might have been a fiery sermon for the second anniversary of the intifada. And maybe I had a face that they didn't feel like seeing right then. I reached Manger Square, but I saw nothing unusual going on. No tents set up. No crowds. Just situation normal. But maybe I'll stay inside for a while until some of the sermon wears off. I hope the preacher wasn't that memorable.